Correction to Bayview Food Scene- a little known gem

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Awhile back ,we shared this exciting foodie find with you, but accidentally identified all of Fox and Lion Bread’s company information was used with Earl’s Bread name. (original post on the Bayview Food Scene)  Earl and  Fox and Lion’s founder, do Xan deVoss share a table at the Bayview market but are two separate companies.  Fox and Lion Bread is a micro bakery focused on creating artisan breads using the finest local ingredients. Here is how Xan explains his foray into artisan baking and the founding of his business,

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Fox and Lion’s Chocolate Bread

“I learned how to bake bread over 30 years ago from my father Gary. We baked mostly dinner rolls and my proudest moments were when I would get to punch down the dough.

After my first child was born I began experimenting with naturally fermented breads. My loaves went from flat rocks to delicious loaves as I learned how different variations produced vastly different results.

As I studied more about this type of artisan bread I became more and more fascinated by the process. As you ferment breads naturally for long periods of time the breads are easier to digest and the flavors are deep and subtle.

Fox and Lion is a tribute to my two family names, DeVoss and Levine. As artisan breads have a long history with regards to community and family, it is important to me to use bread to create cultural ties that bridge community and family heritage.

It is my hope that by producing wholesome breads for my community that this will be the catalyst for my neighbors to create tradition by “breaking bread” with their families.”

For more about Fox and Lion, including pick-up locations and bi-weekly and weekly bread “subscriptions, check out foxandlionbread.com.

Dandelion Chocolates getting creative with it for the holidays!

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From their website, an amazing line-up for the inaugural year of what is sure to become a Mission holiday favorite!

The 12 Nights of Chocolate

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We’re very excited to announce a new holiday tradition that we are starting at our chocolate factory on Valencia Street: the 12 Nights of Chocolate!

Starting next Tuesday the 10th for 12 whole nights, we will be hosting a series of festive events celebrating our love of chocolate. The highlight of this series are the pastry chef nights where local pastry luminaries Emily Lucchetti, Janet Dalton, Jessica Sullivan, Lincoln Carson, Angela Gong, and Terri Wu will host intimate dessert evenings made with our chocolate. The profits from these pastry chef nights will go to benefit the SF / Marin Food Bank, which seeks to end hunger in San Francisco.

We’ll be posting more details as the month progresses, but here’s a quick overview of what we have planned:

#1 – Guatemala Sourcing Talk – Tuesday December, 10th
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Greg, our resident Bean Sourcer-er, will give a talk about his recent sourcing trip to Guatemala at 7:00PM in the cafe. FREE
#2 – Book signing and demo – Wednesday December, 11th
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Local Mission author Andrea Lawson Grey will be doing a book signing and demo for her new cookbook: CELEBRACIONES MEXICANAS – History, Traditions, and Recipes. Andrea will show us how to make Mexican Hot Chocolate and Chocolate Dipping Sauce for Churros starting at 7:00PM in the cafe. FREE
#3 – Food drive – Thursday December, 12th
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We’re kicking off our food-drive, by giving a free, special treat to anyone who brings in a food item for the SF / Marin Food Bank this day. The most needed items are: tuna, canned meat, peanut butter, soup, chili, beans, cereal, canned fruit and vegetables, and granola bars. Food collection bins will be available through the 21st. PLEASE NOTE: Cafe will be closing at 7 for our staff holiday party.
#4 – Tuscan Desserts with Jessica Sullivan – Friday December, 13th
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Previously the pastry chef at Boulevard and Prospect, Jessica now heads up the pastry program at the Delfina Group. She will be presenting a three course dessert tasting menu focused on Tuscan / Northern Italian Desserts with wine and spirit pairings from Locanda. 8:30PM $50 – PLEASE NOTE: the cafe will be closing at 8PM this night. More info and tickets here.
#5 – Wine and Chocolate – Saturday December, 14th
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An intimate evening with a wine and chocolate pairing in our upstairs mezzanine. Wines by Sonoma / San Francisco based Wattle Creek Winery. Limited to 14 people. More details and tickets here. 7PM. $75
#6 – Holiday Cookie Popup – Sunday December, 15th
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All day Sunday our pastry chef, Lisa Vega, will be exclusively making holiday cookies in the cafe. Come try her creations or bring some home. ALL DAY
#7 – Movie Night – Monday December, 16th
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We’re setting up the cafe as a small movie theater and screening Willy Wonka and the Chocolate factory. There will be (chocolate-covered) popcorn and golden tickets of course. Popcorn and treats at 7:45, movie starts at 8:15 sharp. $15 Tickets herePLEASE NOTE: the cafe will be closing at 7:30PM this night.
#8 – Crunchy Creamy All Chocolate Pop Up Party with Emily Luchetti and Janet Dalton – Tuesday December, 17th
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Executive Chef, Author, and James Beard Board Member Emily Luchetti is teaming up with Janet Dalton, former pastry chef of Postrio to a host a night of desserts! Buy tickets in advance (some available at the door) and drop in between 7-9PM to try hot chocolate milk shakes, desserts, and other treats made by these amazing chefs. Lots and lots of treats.

The chefs wanted us to warn you to eat something savory before you come. Not responsible for overdosing on chocolate.

Drop in any time between 7-9PM. $35 – PLEASE NOTE: the cafe will be closing at 7PM this night. More info and tickets here (or at the door).
#9 – Wine and Chocolate II – Wednesday December, 18th
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An intimate evening with a wine and chocolate pairing in our upstairs mezzanine. Wines by Sonoma / San Francisco based Wattle Creek Winery. Limited to 14 people. More details and tickets here. 7PM. $75
#10 – Lincoln Carson – Thursday December, 19th
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Lincoln Carson, who heads up the pastry program at the Michael Mina restaurants will be hosting a chocolate and whisky ceremony with three Suntory whiskies; Hakushu, Hibiki and Yamazaki. 8:30PM $50 – PLEASE NOTE: the cafe will be closing at 8PM this night.More info and tickets here.
#11 – Angela Gong and Terri Wu – Friday December, 20th
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Angela Gong of Waterbar and Terri Wu of Farralon will be hosting a sweet and savory prix fixe chocolate menu with spirit pairings by Craig Lane of Bar Agricole. 8:30PM $50 – PLEASE NOTE: the cafe will be closing at 8PM this night. More info and tickets here.
#12 – Fondue Night – Saturday December, 21th
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We’re ending the 12 nights with Fondue! Starting at 6pm we will be offering fondue with a series of toppings in the cafe until close. 6PM until close (or until sold out).

Posted on December 4th, 2013 by  | 0 Comments

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I will be making a personal appearance at Dandelion Chocolates: Cooking Demo and Book Signing

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Those of you who follow me know I don’t usually use my blog to toot my own horn, in fact, I rarely write in the first person. But next week is kinda special, as I will be appearing in the Mission and creating my own “Taste of SF”, just in time to kick off the holiday season. December 12th is Dia de La Virgin de Guadalupe, and Mexican Hot Chocolate is often served, along with tamales and other treats!Screen shot 2013-12-03 at 1.48.55 PM

COOKING DEMO & BOOK SIGNING

Andrea Lawson Gray will show us how to make Mexican Hot Chocolate and Chocolate Dipping Sauce for Churros,
AT DANDELION CHOCOLATES (kick-off of their 12 DAYS OF CHOCOLATE EVENT SERIES)
(740 Valencia)
BEGINNING AT 7:00 PM
DECEMBER 11th

Get to know Celia’s by the Beach, a SF landmark

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It may be a ways from the Mission District, by Celia’s by the Beach is 100% Mexican, not just in flavor but also in philosophy. Recently, I had the opportunity to talk to Phil Havlicek, who, with his brother, Salvador Lopez runs the popular neighborhood Mexican restaurant Celia’s by the Beach in San Francisco’s Beach district. After a delightful dinner, we got to talking about the history of the place and learned a few things:

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Andrea: I know Celia was your grandmother and that she founded the business with your grandfather, when was that and where was the original location? Did she do all the cooking? How did the business grow to what it is today?

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Phil: As the story goes, our grandparents, Celia and Perfecto immigrated to San Francisco Sunset in the 1950s, leaving behind their children with the rest of family in Mexico. They worked doing odd jobs, bussing tables and washing dishes, until they had enough money to bring their children. Once the family was situated and they had saved enough money, Celia and Perfecto bought a small coffee shop on Judah between 45th and 46th Avenues. The previous owner would not allow Mexicans to continue running the coffee shop under the same name, so Celia grabbed a paper bag, wrote her name on it (Celia’s), taped it over the original name and Celia’s Diner was born in 1960. The cafe had four tables and some diner-style seating. At first the cafe only served breakfast and lunch, eggs, coffee … Perfecto loved American food – steaks, eggs, burgers, fries, and hash browns. This what he ate, and this is what they served. Business was going well, so they decided to open for dinner. But dinner service was not an immediate success and Celia wanted to try something new. Perfecto had a friend that was a sort of Mexican food entrepreneur and offered to teach Celia the recipes for some traditional dishes: enchiladas and tacos… back then the Sunset was majority Irish, most of whom had never tasted anything like this before. This very new and fresh Mexican cuisine, which was introduced into the menu around 1963, was an instant hit and there were lines around the block! Some of our customers that come in to eat to this day remember when the lines were out the door and come in and tell us stories of the original Celia’s Diner.

Celia and Perfecto both did the cooking front the beginning. One thing that Celia and Perfecto were legendary for was their generosity and hospitality. I have customers that come into the restaurant, now in their 80s, and recall instances when Celia had offered them a ride home when they had had just a little too much tequila. If someone forgot something at the restaurant, they would deliver it to their house!

What a lot of people do not know is that Perfecto, although not the face of restaurant was the backbone. He ran the kitchen and made sure the restaurant had what it needed to keep humming like a well-tuned machine.

As time progressed, the restaurant grew in popularity. More family members continued to immigrate to San Francisco. Celia and Perfecto would lend them money and teach them the business and these family members would form partnerships to open more Celia’s. At one point there were over 20 Celia’s in the Bay Area. Today there are 13. In the end, their hard work and generosity has yielded a beautiful family and business.

Andrea: What is your personal history with Celia’s by the Beach? What inspired you to go into the family business?

Phil: My brother Sal and I have been going to #1 (that’s how we refer to the restaurants, #1 being Celia’s by the Beach) since, well, since we were born. Customers come up to me and tell me they used to carry me in their arms when I was a baby! As we sat in the booths as little kids, we used to dream together about the improvements we would make to the restaurant, crazy recipe ideas and that we would live together and manage restaurants together. You know, manifest destiny. I was presented with a few opportunities after college; but growing up and working the restaurants my whole life, and the sense of pride and responsibility I felt towards the family business… all of this led me to the business.

Andrea: Mexican food in the US has really changed over the years, from a niche market to something more mainstream. What changes did you make when you took over?

Phil: It’s true, Mexican food has expanded and continues to be one of the fastest growing types of cuisine, especially in the Bay area. We were very weary of making major changes to the menu and so were our customers. When we made minor changes, many customers would confide that they feared that their beloved Celia’s wouldn’t be the same. You see, we built our business on a very simple concept: treat your customers and employees like family. Nowadays, many restaurateurs act as if good service is a favor the staff is doing for their customers.

Of course we run a restaurant and the food is our revenue generator, but it has always been more than food for our family. It’s about sharing our culture. It’s about sharing that one moment in the day with our customers when they can relax and enjoy some good food and drink. We offer Mexican comfort food and mighty good margaritas – we are not trying to stray from that.

As far as food goes, over the years a lot of the Celia’s have drifted away from our original philosophy. Since my brother and I took the reins, we have been focused on getting back to basics. We referenced our Grandmother’s original recipes and tweaked a lot of the sauces to bring out her flavors.

We are continually looking for more quality, sustainable and local ingredients to integrate into the menu. It’s a tricky subject really; our customers are very accustomed to our taste and price points. There is the risk that too much change could turn off a lot of our old customers. It’s all about finding that balance.

Andrea: Your little neighborhood by the beach there is pretty hip… has it changed much over the years? Is your clientele mostly local?

Phil: It sure is. Having worked at #1 for over a decade and eating there my whole life, it is incredible to see the change in the hood. Many young families, energetic and artistic people have made the Beach their home. The neighborhood is going through a major renaissance. A majority of our customers are locals. But with popular restaurateurs like Thang Long and Outerlands, we draw customers from all over the Bay Area.

Andrea: What is your favorite dish from your menu? And your favorite cocktail?

Phil: My favorite traditional dish would be the #6, Two Enchiladas Verde. Favorite burrito is the Expresso Burrito. Did you know Perfecto invented the wet burrito back in the 60s? And I love fajitas, I eat them every day – healthy and delicious.SONY DSC

My favorite cocktail is the Perfecto Margarita – fresh squeezed lemon, lime, simple syrup, Anejo Tequila and Grand Marnier float.SONY DSC

Andrea: I know you have a family night and Taco Tuesdays. Can you tell us about these and other specials you run?

Phil: Taco Tuesday is a great time for all. The thing I love about Taco Tuesday is that we have customers from every generation showing up to eat and drink: $1 tacos, $2 Coronas, $4 Margaritas $5, Tequila specials, and $5 Mexican Hand-stands (Corona in a Margarita). The concept behind family night defines family in the broadest of terms, just like it did for Celia and Perfecto. Family went well beyond blood relatives for them and the legacy of this can still be seen today from as various people come up to us and share their stories about my grandparents.

Familia Wednesdays is an opportunity for families and groups of friends to come in to enjoy some good food and drink specials. Our staff is trained to work with children, for good reason too, the restaurant looks like a playground at times! One of the rewarding aspects of working at Celia’s is seeing families grow over time. I have customers come in who have told me that Celia’s is the first place they tasted Mexican food and now they take their children in for the same experience. It is a time for friends to come in and get over “Hump Day.” Kids eat free; there are $7 combo appetizers and $19 margarita pitchers.

Andrea: What plans do you have for the future? Are you looking at other opportunities in the restaurant business and if so, how will they differ from Celia’s?

Phil: We have a lot of plans for the future. Live music, salsa night (dancing and dip), food and drink specials. We are really pushing for Saturday and Sunday brunch. Sal and I have been brainstorming with a concept for a new restaurant – brief menu focusing on seasonal and regional Mexican cuisines with a large spirit selection.

Monday Closed
Tuesday 4:30–10:00 pm
Wednesday 4:30–9:00 pm
Thursday 4:30–10:00 pm
Friday 4:30–10:00 pm
Saturday 4:30–10:00 pm
Sunday 4:30–9:00 pm

$$

Day of the Dead: a bit of history and a recipe for age-old Mexican pumpkin treat

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Day of the Dead, which is not a day at all, in fact, but in Mexico, a celebration which runs from Oct. 30th through November 2nd, will be celebrated here in San Francisco on November 2nd with a procession and a Festival of Altars, from 6-11pm, Garfield Park, 26th & Harrison Streets.

Note: the following is adapted from an excerpt of the book, Celebraciones Mexicanas: History, Traditions and Recipes, by this columnist co-authored with Adriana Almazan Lahl.

Día de los Muertos is the only modern Mexican festival for which there is conclusive evidence of pre-Hispanic roots. During the month of Xocotlhuetzi, which fell in July and/or August, the Aztecs marked the Great Feast of the Dead. It was the conquering Spaniards who “relocated” the festival to coincide with All Hallows Eve. The Aztec celebration coincided with the harvest of beans, chickpeas, rice, corn, and pumpkin. These foods were part of the offering that was placed at the altar of the goddess Mictecacihuatl, ruler of the afterlife along with her husband, Mictlantecuhtli.  Researchers think that these traditions eventually became conflated with others, which included burying personal objects of the deceased, along with food and offerings.Screen shot 2013-10-13 at 7.21.55 PM

 Día de Muertos Totonaco at Huehuetla, Puebla, photo by Jorge Ontiveros from Celebraciones Mexicanas: History, Traditions and Recipes

A Guide to Elements of the Modern Altar

Far removed from their origins in rituals dedicated to Aztec deities, altars today usually have three levels, which represent the Father, the Son, and the Holy Spirit. On these, offerings (ofrendas) are placed to honor and nourish the dead.

  • On the first level are photographs of the deceased, seven candles representing the seven capital sins, and four veladoras (blessed candles) to guide the departed souls on their journey, their light symbolic of eternal love. Here, too, are the marigolds (cempazuchil), the traditional Day of the Dead flowers, their bright orange-yellow color representing the brightness of the sun, and their aroma attracting the souls of the dead to the altars prepared in their honor.
  • Oranges and fruits are found on the second level. On this level are the papel picado banners, intricate hand-cut colored papers that represent the freedom that death brings, each color having a specific meaning: purple for Christian mourning, orange for Aztec mourning, white for purity and pink for celebration.
  • On the last level, a tray with a pitcher of water called and aguamanil is placed along with a piece of soap, a towel, even a mirror, so the deceased can wash up before they eat.  Here, a treasured article of clothing, as well as their favorite foods (often mole, tamales and atole) toys and sweets for the returning souls of children, and for the adults, even tequila and cigarettes. It is not expected that the departed will actually consume the offerings, but rather that they will “absorb” them. Afterwards, the living usually partake of the food and drink that is left on the altar, sometimes wearing a favorite article of that clothing that had been worn by the deceased. A cross made of ash is also created on the last level as a way to purify the spirits of the dead. Incense (copal) is there to scare away evil spirits. Pan de Muertos (Bread of the Dead, found this time of year in Mexican bakeries or panaderias throughout the Mission) and alfreñiques (sugar skulls) are also found on this level.

Pumpkin has been an essential part of Day of the Dead ofrendas since Aztec times, when they used the sap of a maguey plant as a sweetener for calabaza. The arrival of the Spanish brought sugar cane, first introduced in Vera Cruz as early as 1524, which changed the was the sweetened pumpkin was prepared. Cooks began to candy the pumpkin by placing it into caldrons called tachas that were used for making sugar. It simmered along with other spices and fruits, resulting in the dish known today as Calabza en Tacha.Screen shot 2013-10-08 at 2.29.42 PM

Calabaza en Tacha, photo by Adriana Almazan Lahl from Celebraciones Mexicanas, History, Traditions and Recipes

Mexican children often eat this seasonal treat immersed in a tall glass, topping up the glass with cold milk, and eat it with a spoon. Click here to get a discount on your milk purchase to enjoy your Calabaza en Tacha this way! gotmilk.com

Calabaza en Tacha

(serves 8)

5 cups water
7 piloncillo cones (order via ranchogordo.com or available at Casa Lucas on 24th & Florida Sts.
4 cinnamon sticks
2 oranges (juice and rind)
. tsp anise seeds
. tsp ground cloves
1 large orange pumpkin (8–10 lbs)
(Remember that carving pumpkins are not always the best for cooking. Here is a useful guide to picking pumpkins).
2 tbsp cal (calcium carbonate)*

Bring water to a boil, add piloncillo, cinnamon, orange juice, and rind. Wrap anise seeds and cloves in cheese cloth, close tightly and add to the pot. Cover pot and cook for 3 hours over low flame, stirring occasionally, until a medium light syrup forms.
Meanwhile, cut pumpkin into large chunks (3- to 4-inch pieces), place in a large pot and cover them with water and calcium carbonate and let rest for 3 hours. After 3 hours, drain and wash thoroughly.
Clear debris from spices from the syrup, combine pumpkin with syrup, and cook over low heat until pumpkin is tender, about 1. to 2 hours. Allow to cool for 15 minutes before serving or refrigerate overnight and serve cold.photo (1)

Guest Blog: Day of the Dead Bread- The Origins

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Originally posted on Mexico Retold:

I am so excited to bring you the latest Mexico Retold, guest blog, this time all about Day of the Dead or more specifically Day of the Dead bread! I thought I knew a lot about Mexican food, but Andrea Lawson Gray (co-author of Celebraciones Mexicanas: History, Traditions and Recipes) takes it to another level. I hope that you will find this piece as fascinating and enlightening as I did, and if you get baking, I want to see those pictures! Andrea’s book is definitely going on my Christmas wish list! 

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The following is excerpted from Celebraciones Mexicanas: History, Traditions and Recipes by Andrea Lawson Gray and Adriana Almazan Lahl (see website at www.celebracionesmexicanas.com for ordering information)

Origins of Day of the Dead Bread

Pan de muertos (Day of the Dead bread) is as fascinating in its folklore as it is in its variety of shape and style. Undoubtedly a…

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Support the Hispanic Scholarship Fund w/ Cacique Food Truck in SF this Friday at SoMA StrEat Food Park

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Friday, Sept. 26th, the Hispanic Scholarship Fund is co-hosting the San Francisco #Cacique40FoodTruck from 11-2pm at  the SoMA StrEat Food Park. Celebrate Cacique’s 40th anniversary with delicious dishes by award-winning Chef and Food Network Star, Aarón Sánchez. 100% of food truck profits will be donated to HSF (yes, folks, you read that right, not 2% or a portion of. 100%!)  To date, HSF has awarded over $400 million in scholarships and has supported a broad range of outreach and education programs to help students and their families navigate collegiate life, from gaining admission and securing financial aid to finding employment after graduation.  HSF envisions a future where every Latino household will have at least one college graduate

Cotija-Crusted Quesadilla

Cotija-Crusted Quesadilla

AT: SoMA StrEAT Food Park at 11th and Division Sts. (across from Cosco)

The Hispanic Scholarship Fund (HSF) is the nation’s largest not-for-profit organization supporting Hispanic higher education. The Food Trucks, featuring Cacique® products, will tour key cities to raise funds in celebration of the anniversary, with 100% of the profits to be donated to HSF. The effort is being led by award-winning Chef and Food Network Star Aarón Sánchez.  For more information on the Cacique® 40th Food Truck or to obtain recipes visitwww.caciqueinc.com or www.facebook.com/caciquebrand.

Tostadas with Cacique Chorizo and Chile de Arbol Salsa

Tostadas with Cacique Chorizo and Chile de Arbol Salsa

Menu items created by Sánchez will sell at $5-$6. Menu choice items include the delicious Cotija Crusted Quesadilla, Three Cheese Salad, Tostadas with Cacique® Chorizo and Chile de Arbol Salsa and Shrimp Aguachile Tostaditas.

Three Cheese Salad

Three Cheese Salad

“HSF is grateful to Cacique® for their commitment and support of Hispanic higher education,” says Fidel A. Vargas, President and CEO of the Hispanic Scholarship Fund. “Cacique®’s donations are an important investment towards the goal of placing a college degree in every Latino household.”